Inclusive Suits for Trans and Non-Binary People
We make suits for people who do not fit the men’s rack or the women’s rack: trans, non-binary and gender-diverse people, and anyone whose body or style sits between the two.
The fit problems are usually the same. A men’s jacket fits the shoulders but pulls at the hips. A women’s jacket fits the hips but is shaped for a bust or waist you do not want to show. The trousers fit at the waist but not through the seat.
This guide covers what to choose instead, detail by detail, and how we make a suit around the body you have and the way you want to look.
What Is an Inclusive Suit?
An inclusive suit is a suit where each detail is chosen to suit your body and how you want to present, rather than taken from a men’s or women’s range. There is no single gender-fluid or androgynous cut. The shoulder, waist, lapel, jacket length and trousers can each be chosen separately.
Why Off-the-Rack Suits Often Do Not Work
Off-the-rack suits are made in standard sizes based on typical men’s or women’s proportions. Common problems include:
men’s jackets that are too wide at the shoulders or too tight at the hips
women’s jackets that are shaped for a bust or a defined waist when you do not want that shape
trousers with a rise or seat that does not match your body
having to choose a range that does not reflect how you want to look
Alterations can fix lengths and some width, but shoulder width and chest shape are hard to change once a suit is made, which is why a suit cut for your body type works better than adjusting one that was not.
The Seven Details You Can Choose
Shoulders. A structured shoulder gives a sharper, broader line. A softer shoulder follows your natural shoulder.
Waist. The jacket can be cut straight from the shoulder to the hem, or shaped in at the waist.
Lapel. A notch lapel is the most versatile. A peak lapel looks more formal and makes the shoulders look broader. A shawl lapel is softer and suits evening wear.
Front. A single-breasted jacket is easy to wear in most settings. A double-breasted jacket looks more structured.
Jacket length. A longer jacket gives a straighter, more traditional menswear line. A shorter jacket shows more of the waist and hip.
Trousers. Rise, leg width and length can all be chosen to suit your body and style.
Button side. By convention, men’s jackets button right over left and women’s jackets button left over right. On a made-to-measure suit, you can ask for either.
Where to start with our jackets
For a straight, structured menswear line: the Isadora DB Jacket, our double-breasted option.
For a versatile single-breasted jacket you can wear most days: the Freya Notch Blazer.
For a softer line or evening wear: the Freya Shawl Jacket.
For black tie events and weddings: the Isadora Tuxedo Jacket.
For evening events in a textured cloth: the Catriona Velvet Blazer.
Fit Considerations
Wear what you will wear under the suit. When you are measured, wear the same underlayers you plan to wear with the suit, including a binder if you use one, so the fit matches how you will actually wear it.
Think about changes ahead. If your body is likely to change, for example during a transition, mention it at the consultation so it can be considered when choosing the cut and cloth.
We have also written a guide to tailoring a suit around binding and after top surgery, which covers chest fit in more detail.
How to Have an Inclusive Suit Made at Isadora Nim
Isadora Nim’s standard service is made-to-measure. A made-to-measure suit starts from an established pattern, which is adjusted to your measurements and to the choices you make at your consultation.
At the consultation, we go through the details in this guide with you one by one. It helps to tell us:
how you want the suit to look, for example structured and straight, soft, or somewhere in between
where you will wear it, such as work, a wedding or evening events
any fit problems you have had with suits before
You then choose the cloth and details, and your measurements are taken. We confirm the timing for your order when you book.
People Also Ask
What should a non-binary person wear to a wedding or formal event?
A suit in a dark colour suits most weddings and formal events. For black tie, a tuxedo jacket or a shawl lapel in black or midnight works. Choose the shirt, collar and accessories you are comfortable in.
What is the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke?
A made-to-measure suit starts from an established pattern adjusted to your measurements. Bespoke tailoring generally drafts a new pattern from scratch and takes longer. Made-to-measure is Isadora Nim’s standard service.
Should I bring reference photos to the consultation?
Yes. Photos of suits or outfits you like are a quick way to show the look you want.
How much does an inclusive made-to-measure suit cost?
The price depends on the cloth and the details you choose. Ask us for pricing when you book your consultation.
Book a Consultation
Tell us how you want your suit to look and where you will wear it, and we will go through the options with you.